Painting swimming pools might seem easy -- drain the pool, paint the pool, fill the pool, jump in and enjoy. But, in reality, there are many variables that must be dealt with to insure satisfactory results:
- Proper preparation is essential. There are no shortcuts. Most failures occur due to inadequate surface preparation. Old paint in poor condition or blistered paint must be removed. Chalk must be removed. All holes, cracks, and surface breaks must be patched with the proper non-shrinking patch material. Acid etching must be used to clean patched concrete areas and thoroughly rinsed with clean water. The entire pool should be cleaned with a suitable cleaner (M-1 House Wash) and thoroughly rinsed. This insures removal of suntan oils, dirt, scum, and chemical residue.
- Short nap (3/8 inch) rollers work better than long-naps on pools. Long-naps can cause blistering, due to excessive mils applied. If application by brush or roller produces bubbles, add a small amount of the proper thinner. Bennette's pool paints should only be thinned with Bennette Paint Thinner (33-10). Other thinners can cause slow drying or incompatibilities.
- Follow application instructions on the back of Bennette's 280220 Technical Data Sheet.
- Start painting in the mid-morning, preferably with the pool's surface temperatures ranging around 65°F - 70°F and after the dew has evaporated. Stop painting in the mid-afternoon, so the paint will be relatively dry before the sun sets and dampness settles on the fresh paint. Do not paint over frosted or damp surfaces. Try not to paint in direct sun and follow the shade around the pool, as much as possible.
- Do not wait too long between coats. It could cause peeling. The previous coat cures very hard and the new coat will not sufficiently adhere properly. Recoat should occur within 48 hours, preferably overnight.
- Seven days of dry weather should occur prior to filling an outside pool. Inside pools have slower evaporation rates of the solvents and will need longer cure times.